Bold colours, mild flavours

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Review of  Cardamom, Northfields

What strikes you first about Cardamom on Northfield Avenue is the decor - a clean and simple backdrop, with bold dramatic drapes in the sari colours of cerise and orange. The wooden floors complement the look, as does the modern art on the walls, the choice of cerise glass bottles for the water, the gleaming bar and the bright halogen spots. Combined with that classic table dressing of crisp white linen which is so hard to beat are large, clean-cut glasses. The home improvement gurus on the TV would love the look - and I have to say, so did we. (Sad maybe, but can you honestly say you never watch them?).

The chairs were comfortable, the wines reasonably priced and perfectly drinkable, the background music mild Asian wallpaper. So would the food match up to the environment?

It was certainly fresh, with identifiable spices and herbs; we particularly enjoyed the tasty pumpkin and lamb. The crunchy chicken starter was like thin, very crispy nuggets in rice sticks. The milder curries were very mild indeed, bordering on bland, with smooth-textured pureed sauces. The nan breads were excellent, with no grease. The service was efficient and attentive but certainly not chatty or friendly (although the neighbouring family celebrating a birthday did get a special bow tied around their bottle of wine, to the consternation of the husband who thought it a bit girly). But the main highlight has to be the impeccable bathroom. Where else in Ealing do you get fresh lilies, flowery loo paper and nice hand lotion?

So, it's a pleasant spot for a civilised lunch or family celebration. Children were treated in the same way as everyone else, not fussed over or pandered to, though the ones we saw in there were behaving very well. Curry connoisseurs should steer clear of the milder curries and go for something with a bit more character.

 

January 12, 2006